Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
