When compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.
The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners completely astonished.
“I am completely shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.
This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.
In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.
The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.
The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.
Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.
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